He'e Laulau

Heʻe Laulau (Octopus Wrapped Leaf), Heʻe Laulau is a modern Hawaiian dish that reimagines the traditional laulau by featuring heʻe (octopus), often prepared with rich, savory enhancements like butter and mayonnaise-based sauces. While rooted in the ancient practice of cooking foods wrapped in leaves, this specific preparation highlights contemporary culinary influences. It typically consists of tender heʻe (octopus), often the day octopus (Octopus cyanea), wrapped in taro leaves (Luau leaves) and then wrapped in banana leaves (or sometimes ti leaves, as used in traditional laulau). 

The dish is celebrated for its distinctive savory and umami flavor profile. The octopus, when massaged for a long time and cooked slowly it becomes remarkably tender. It absorbs everything and that is what makes the sauce important, even if traditional laulau is not big on sauce. The inclusion of a butter-mayonnaise sauce is what adds the creaminess and fatty depth with a subtle salty after taste. When prepared with garlic and herbs it adds layers of aromatics to it, which makes it more contemporary. 

Heʻe Laulau (octopus, mahi mahi, shrimp, and scallops) is a product of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC) movement, which emerged in the 1990s. This movement sought to blend traditional Hawaiian ingredients and cooking methods with contemporary culinary techniques and international flavors. Inspired by Sam Choy's Seafood Laulau: This particular iteration of Heʻe Laulau draws inspiration from Chef Sam Choy's Award-Winning Seafood Laulau. On the Big Island Sam Choy's culinary presence was strong, so his influential dish known for its innovative use shoyu-dill butter-mayonnaise sauce, marked a significant departure from the traditional. The introduction of dairy-based sauces and butter is what makes the dish unique.

A notable variation comes from the Hāwī area that is near the Big Island's North Kohala Coast. Here, a local Hawaiian family used to prepare dishes influenced by generational knowledge of the ocean and its resources. This includes referencing the well-known Hawaiian proverb: "Pua ke kō, kū mai ka heʻe" (When the sugarcane flowers, the octopus appears). This saying refers to the seasonal appearance of octopus when the towering sugarcane flowers (once prominent in Hāwī's sugar plantation era) were in bloom, indicating an opportune time for fishing. 

The story goes the family had two sons who often engaged in spear fishing had held the heʻe in high regard, viewing them as sacred beings, even while acknowledging their role as a food source. Their practice reflected lawaiʻa pono (righteous fishing), emphasizing sustainable harvesting and a deep respect for the animal.